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Terms of sale

Posted on September 30, 2014September 30, 2014 by Kevin

Hello!

Im working to build a 73 F250 4×4 and have some spare parts from some of the parts trucks Ive acquired to help me with my own build. Im selling off some of the things i don’t need. Parts from the 73 have already been removed as its frame is getting ready to be sent to be sand blasted. Parts from the 78 mostly need to be pulled as we have not started into that one yet.

NOTE: These parts come from part trucks that are over 40 years old, and appear to have been well used long before i rescued them. If your looking for perfect items, keep looking. the quality will likely be about what you would find in a wrecking yard. Speaking of which, I’m basing my pricing off the price list from Arlington’s Pick-n-Pull

As I’m working thru my own build, some things are already removed and loose, and others will need removal. If your coming to pick up items assume it will need to be pulled by you unless your told otherwise before arrival. This means bringing your own tools just like if you were going to a part yard.

If its not already removed, and you do not have time or tools to do so, parts can be removed before you come for a fee of 30.00 per hour for time needed to remove your requested part.

I will be selling parts from a 73 F150 2wd, a 73 F250 4×4 and a 78 F250 4×4.

I will be working to post pictures of items for sale. Most items from the 73 trucks have been pulled as a part of the deconstruction process. Items from the 78 largely are not yet pulled. If you wish us to remove parts before you come, we can do that for you for an additional $30.00/hr fee to remove parts.

If you need something not listed, ask it may be available! For questions send me an email.

All sales are final.
Bring exact change. Cash only.
No warranty provided or implied.
Local pickup. You load and haul. We are located in Oak Harbor Washington.
ALL items are used. They should be inspected and reconditioned as needed before use.
If the item is not listed as already pulled you will need to bring all tools to remove the part.

1973-1979 Master Parts and Accessories Catalog

Posted on November 3, 2024 by Kevin

How to identify part numbers, and find original parts. Working with trucks over four decades old, it can be hard to identify parts needed for your rebuild. With so many parts crossing over so many vehicles, knowing what part is what, or cross referencing it to part numbers at the part store can tend to drive you off a cliff. The PDF’s here will help you identify parts correctly, which can then be used to cross part numbers to other vendors to find replacement or OE parts.

The links below are to the Master Parts and Accessories Catalog for the years 1973-79 for Ford F100-F500 and E Series vans. Part A is the text based info and Part B is all of the exploded images associated with it. Read pages 2-5 of part A first, it will explain how to read the data presented through out both PDF files.

The Files: I recommend right click and save as.

FPS-8096-A | FPS-8096-B

Long delayed updates

Posted on February 11, 2023 by Kevin

It has been quite a while without any updates. Life has changed a lot while I have been away. From starting a new job, in a better career, to moving back to my home state, and closer to the truck project. I have been both a lot more busy, but also making more frequent progress on things as I am closer to the project again.

the first update is the fabrication around the power steering box. The frame has been fully boxed in, with adding in the inner frame spacer from a ’78 F-250 frame, with a plate closing off the inner side of the frame’s C channel to fully box in the frame where the steering box mounts to the frame. This has been done to strengthen the frame and provide a solid anchoring point for the push/pull of the steering with anticipated larger tires, moving at slow speed while crawling.

After that, we started working on the drivetrain. We are using a 73 Ford 460 engine with a C6 automatic transmission, mated to a married transfer case. The engine needed to be rebuilt. It had about 350,000 miles on it. This was all of it at it’s starting point, being used to set the engine mounts and crossmembers.

The engine had thrown a main bearing, and during tear down it was discovered that it was going to need machining work. We sent it out to Action Machine Shop in Shoreline Washington. The block was bored to .060 over, and once the machining was complete we built the engine up.

Unfortunately, we didn’t keep up with pictures throughout the engine build. We finished the short block, and rebuilt the heads. On the exhaust ports we ground down the Thermactor exhaust port bumps to improve airflow, and completed the engine assembly.

The transmission has also been rebuilt with new clutch disks and seals and a new torque converter. The transmission has a manual valve body and a shift kit in it, and in all the vehicles I have ever driven with an automatic, this transmission is the only one that i didn’t wish was a stick. If your not familiar with a shift kit, I would really recommend looking into them.

For the transfer case, I decided to go with the married NP-205 running a dual stick configuration. This will allow setting H-L-N on each axle independently, making the truck FWD, RWD, or 4WD on demand, as well as selecting Hi or Low range without engaging both axles. The transfer case has been modified with the shift rail kit, as well as cleaned, inspected, and all seals replaced.

This was shortly before the heads were finished. I will need to add more images soon. We have almost finished the accessory devices, and are also moving onto rebuilding the front axle currently. More updates to follow.

crossmember replacement before and after

Posted on September 23, 2016September 23, 2016 by Kevin

So in the past, Ive discussed the replacement of the front crossmember thats below the radiator and front bumper, and how we fabricated its replacement. While i was up working on the truck i got some pics of the original crossmember and will show the before/after effects.

Originally this should have been an L shaped crossmember. Below is what it looked like once we got it off the truck.

Anything but straight. So we replaced it with something much stronger.

Its 2×4 rectangular tubing that has notches for the spring bolts that are reinforced with round pipe cut in half horizontally the crossmember is fully enclosed and will not let in water, rust, or derbies. bolts in with 24 grade 8 bolts to the frame, and has a class III hitch that is welded directly into it.

Stop! No, seriously, brakes let you stop!

Posted on September 15, 2016September 15, 2016 by Kevin

So even after I returned home, my dad in his typical fashion kept working away at the truck. It now has the fuel solenoid, the outlets to each tank, and a line up to the engine. The rear brake lines are ran to each of the rear wheels, upto the frame and up to about the rear cab cross member. Soon we will be able to get the auxiliary fuel tank fabricated.

August Update

Posted on August 30, 2016August 30, 2016 by Kevin

This August I was able to finally go up and visit my folks and spend some time working on the truck project again. The first order of business was removing the bed from the green truck to allow us to better see how fuel and brake lines were being routed, and setup for dual tanks.

We recently purchased the tail housing and output shaft for a C6 transmission that allows bolting the married transfer case directly to the transmission. It was bought sight unseen, and we were glad that the shaft is correct, and splines into the input of the transfer case.

We were able to pull out the transfer case from the orange truck as well as remove two of the cross members from it to mount things correctly in the new build. pulling out the cross members was much more time consuming than expected. Drilling out rivets is not as simple as you may imagine. They will need to be cleaned, and painted and re mounted, but for now we are going for test fittings. making sure everything lines up correctly, and mounts in the new frame right. As the truck originally had a smaller engine, a manual transmission and divorced transfer case, some drilling was required.

With the engine, transmission, adapter and transfer case in, you can see it goes from just behind the radiator, to back just short of the rear cab mounts, and is all connected as one piece. eventually things will need to come back out to be rebuilt but this allows us to measure for fuel tanks, run brake lines, setup steering and a ton of other things.

We had a custom built gas tank created, that will fit between the frame rails at the end of the bed. It will hold 20 gallons once done. We still need to add in the fill neck, and fuel line outputs and float. We will also be building a side tank that will hold between 20 – 22 gallons once done, and upgrading from the manual fuel tank switch to an electric solenoid switch.

While hard to see in this picture (try clicking it so its bigger) you can see the beginnings of new brake lines on the axle, and new brake and fuel lines in the left side frame rail. Its getting all new brake and fuel lines (as well as new or rebuilt more or less everything)

The newest addition to the fleet.

Posted on May 25, 2016June 27, 2016 by Kevin

Because what this project needs? Is another truck! A 73 Camper Special with deluxe trim, A/C, dual tanks etc. The body panels on this truck are far straighter than on any of the others. This will be the starting point for the body of the new truck. Hmmmmn. Now how to get it back to blue?

Carroll Shelby Museum

Posted on October 23, 2015 by Kevin

[metaslider id=893]

I guess we do need axles.

Posted on March 31, 2015April 20, 2015 by Kevin

So in the tear down we posted about how we don’t need no stinking axles! Well in retrospect it should have said we don’t need them now. Time has come however to start cleaning them up and getting them back under the frame so we can sort out the new power steering linkage setup.

Dad was able to clean up the worst of the end pipes and replace the ball joints to get the wheels stabilized. We will finish the axle clean up/painting when we rebuild the axles, and add the air locker systems. But at long last the frame cracks are fixed, the frame is straight, a new front cross member has been meticulously hand crafted, the frame has been flipped up side up, springs added, and the front axle re mounted! WOO HOO!

The finished front crossmember

Posted on March 15, 2015March 15, 2015 by Kevin

Dad put alot of hours into this cross member alone. Its built using 1/4inch rectangular tubing, that was then notched out for the spring perches, and then also notched out for the spring eye bolt hardware by taking a bit of metal tube, cut to length, then cross cut in half to provide the U shaped void. We ordered a bolt on class III hitch for it that has been center mounted and will provide an attachment point for a winch, tow ball, or recovery loop. It is far stronger than the original and looks wonderful.

Finishing up the front crossmember

Posted on February 2, 2015 by Kevin

We decided to use 2×4 rectangular tubing vs the 2×6 to make sure it will clear the four core radiator and the front radiator support panel. It completely replaces the stock cross member that was less than 1/4 inch thick metal, that was also twisted and destroyed. This will be far stronger.

This will be just below the front bumper when the truck is done, and we will weld in a class three receiver hitch into it for mounting tow balls, hooks, or a winch to the front of the truck. I’m really happy with how this turned out. It looks nice, and is much stronger than stock, and will provide an excellent mount point for attaching to the truck properly.

Above you see the stock angle brace that has been shortened some to allow for the thicker tubing. In the background on the frame you can see some of the welding for fixing the frame crack. Soon we should be able to get the other spring installed (currently waiting on the correct bushings) then get the frame flipped over and mount the axles.